Sannes field work in Chimborazo, Ecuador

By Sanne Kroezen (Master students exchange programme, cohort of 2024-2025)

Introduction

My name is Sanne Kroezen Peña, I am a Dutch-Ecuadorian MSc student of Law and Society at Leiden University. Currently, I am in Ecuador to conduct fieldwork for my thesis on local perceptions of water justice in the communities along the Guarguallá and Alao rivers, in collaboration with the Observatorio Politecnico del Agua of the ESPOCH university.

Expectations

As a half-Ecuadorian, I was already quite familiarized with the Ecuadorian nature, culture, language and food. I was born in Quito, and I have returned with some regularity to the country. But still, the varied nature, with mountains and jungle side by side, the delicious (and cheap) food, and the friendly people keep surprising me again as if it’s the first time I see it. However, living somewhere for 3 months and doing research is very different from holidays.

During my preparations in the Netherlands, I tried to imagine what my time in Riobamba and the communities would be like…: “I would have to do everything by bus or cab, not by bike like in Amsterdam.” “Lunch would consist of a three-course meal, instead of a simple cheese sandwich.” “I will probably also have to eat cuy (guinea pig) while I’m there.” “The weather would be a lot nicer than the rainy Netherlands…”

Now that I have been here for over a month, these expectations all turned out to be true (I have even tasted cuy).

Also, I expected academic differences and differences with regards to the student-life. This, however, was more similar than I had expected. Only, the views from the ESPOCH campus are a bit more breathtaking than from Leiden University or the WUR, with several volcanos in the background.

Life in Riobamba and Licto

After a 24-hour trip from Amsterdam, I arrived in Quito, the bruising capital of the country. I got to live in the cheerful Ecuadorian culture again. After a week of settling in Quito, I arrived at Riobamba, located in the center of Ecuador. A colorful city surrounded by the Chimborazo, Tungurahua and more volcanoes. There is a lot of life on the streets of Riobamba with countless cafes, restaurants and bars. The street scenes vary every block, with traditionally clothed women selling food on the market and a supermarket in a big mall in the next street. Riobamba illustrates the rich culture of Ecuador and showed me how the communitarian lives interact with the city life.

Although my thesis focuses on the communities outside the city, like Licto and Pungala, my home-basis is in Riobamba, as there are many actors living in Riobamba and many ESPOCH-events to attend. However, I visit Licto several times a week and have a room there with a warm family.

The first time I arrived in Licto, I felt like I was entering another world. Where I blended in so easily in Riobamba, I stood out here in the village. As I moved away from the main square, the streets turned from tiles into earth. I visited the feria full of pigs, guinea pigs, chickens and other animals. Suddenly, I felt not local anymore, as I did feel in Riobamba, attracting stares by not wearing the traditional clothing (and by wearing a camera around my neck). And that whilst Licto is only 30 minutes away from Riobamba.

The second time in Licto, the local culture was even more visible. After a meeting at the Guarguallá-Licto irrigation system, I had the special opportunity to join them to the local festivities of Licto, which started with a beautiful parade on the streets of Licto. All the surrounding communities participated in the parade with local dances, clothing, and music, all in their own style.

Currently, I am enjoying the switch between the city-life in Riobamba and the village-life of Licto, while conducting interviews and participant observation (eg. at the minga).